Tuesday, November 17, 2015

VIET NAM: SOME NOT SO RANDOM THOUGHTS

So, we just returned from 18 days in Vietnam.  Before I share some of my thoughts, let me mention two related items.  At any age, let alone mine, a 15 hour non stop flight is a numbing nightmare even if it all goes smoothly.  Second, this is not about the war with Vietnam though it did hang over us like a dark cloud--especially in light of the 50,000 Americans killed and untold millions of Vietnamese.  So if you want to debate the war, look elsewhere.

--We started in Hanoi--a city full of a bustling street scene and lots of street vendors most of whom seemed female while the men lolled around in the cafes.  As we were reminded by our terrific tour guide, the country is not just a socialist one but it is also a dictatorship.  This was most evident in Hanoi where every so often the speakers on the electric poles would chirp up some shit to inspire the workers.  Then there were the motor bikes (and I am not talking Harleys).  I am talking the equivalent of Vespas driven by a bazilliion maniacs--none of whom obey one fucking law.  They ignore street lights, ignore pedestrians, go down one way streets the wrong way, drive on the sidewalk if street traffic is too heavy, and carry all manner of cargo including children.  Oh, and did I mention, they rarely wear helmets. One look at the telephone poles and you wonder how they don't just explode with the profusion of wires all exposed and connecting who knows what to who knows what.
--The country uses no coins.  Going to an ATM allows you to come away with million dollar bills which feels very exciting until you are told you are holding $50 dollars American.  No newspapers but plenty of women selling chicken and fish--both unrefrigerated--sitting on cutting boards all day.
--I forget the numbers but this is a young country with tons of children and adults under 30.  An excellent state run airline and a 38 hour train ride between Hanoi and Saigon which we did not take.  BTW, the Vietnamese do not call it Ho Chi Minh city no matter what the government says--it is Saigon.
--They hate the Chinese even while being afraid of them--the ocean to the East which the rest of us call the South China sea is referred to as the East Sea by the Vietnamese.
--We visited 3 UNESCO World Heritage sites--Halong Bay which is just spectacular, Hoi Ann a tourist mecca but untouched by any war damage and full of pedestrian friendly streets, and the ruins (I forget the name) of an ancient civilization.
--Every time I saw a man with a missing limb, I wondered......
--If Hanoi is the political capital with a population of 8 million, then Saigon is the economic capital with a population of 10 million.  Together, they make up about 1/4 of the population.  There are a number of medium size cities--Hue, Nha Trang, and Danang to name 3.  But a lot of folks live in rural villages and lead very agricultural lives--still plowing many fields with water buffalo.  They are the second biggest coffee exporter in the world and that Starbucks coffee you sip might be from there even though Starbucks won't admit it.  They export tons (literally) of rice mainly coming from the South. We traveled on the Mekong River--a la John Kerry.
--Met with villagers making bamboo baskets and/chopsticks with old fashioned tools.  Drank shots of rum with the mayor of one village.  Met with two Viet Cong soldiers still heeding a rather rigid party line and getting me close to anger for the only time during the visit.
--Went to the War Remnants Museum (check out that language) which is their effort to show their citizens about that war.  While it is a major propaganda site, it is important to remember they have a perspective too-which is way different than ours.  People in the North generally believe they won the war.  People in the South generally believe we abandoned them.  These are generalities but they sound very familiar today, don't they?.
--Went to the site of Cu Chi which contained multiple tunnels used as both protection and subterranean housing during that war.
--Visited a Montagnard village--the ethnic "hill" tribe who were bought off by our CIA to fight the Viet Cong.  Still isolated and still remote though no longer in the jungle.
--Don't ever go in the rainy season.  We were there when it was supposed to be over and overall the weather was great--except for two days where it poured horizontally and flooded some streets.
--Nha Trang is on the way to becoming the BIG mid country version of Miami Beach.  High rises, discos, and a magical beach populated by Russians and, no offense, but you can tell those Russians in about two seconds what with the men in speedos and the women in bikinis and in both cases they belong on much thinner bodies.
--A vibrant, exciting country very much like Cuba though Cuba seems to be making peace with itself.  A socialist dictatorship where public education is not free and there is no national health insurance--go figure.
--Had a terrific time with very nice travel companions and ate wonderful pho and what seemed like 8 courses of food at every meal. There is more to say but like the meals, I have not fully digested it yet.
--The people were warm, generous, hospitable, and excited about meeting Americans.  Toured Dalat University with  two young women just dying to improve their English and then visiting America.  Got laughed at there and elsewhere because of my hirsute appearance.
--Much more to say and I kind of feel like I have not done the trip justice. We loved it.
--But oh that 15 hour flight.

I will stop here by wishing you all a Happy Turkey Day and saying that I have no words/insights into ISIS attacks except my thoughts are with the victims.

Adios.

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